New restaurant: Grandma’s Home

By Emily Wetzki, July 28, 2015

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Originating in Hangzhou in 1998 and quickly earning a stellar reputation as a family-friendly restaurant, Grandma’s Home has developed into a legend, boasting over 80 locations in more than 20 cities across China – each with an endless queue.

Wu Guoping, founder of Grandma’s Home, is a pursuer of fashion as well as perfection, exemplified by the diversity of designs adopted in each restaurant. The branch housed on the sixth floor of Happy Valley embodies a rustic theme with wooden pavilions, patio furniture, a touch of cobblestone and plants.

Specializing in Hangzhou cuisine, Grandma’s menu features a mix of classic fare, with stars and thumbs indicating the overall popularity of each dish. Even those with one star, however, don’t taste nearly as bad as one would expect, least of all the fresh and crisp fried lettuce (清炒莴笋, RMB15) and steamed shrimp with garlic and cellophane noodles (蒜蓉粉丝虾 RMB35). For the little ones, Grandma’s Home prepares snow cones, smoothies and ice cream (RMB15-28), available in a variety of flavors.

Grandma's House

Eschewing fancy nouveau creations, this eatery focuses on homely dishes for fair prices, such as the braised pork in brown sauce (红烧肉 RMB45), tea-scented chicken (茶香鸡, RMB45) and sauteed chops with sweet and sour sauce (糖醋排骨, RMB48). Most get the job done, but the flavor is nothing most locals couldn’t cook up in their own kitchen. The so-called tea-scented chicken, for example, comes overcooked without any lingering scent of the leaf.

Despite the mundaneness of the food, it somehow manages to draw hundreds of clientele every day, lunch and dinner alike, no matter the weather. An hour-long wait is normal. If you show up later than 7pm, chances are you won’t get on the waiting list at all. Reservations aren’t available, so we recommend arriving early, grabbing a number and coming back later.

To ease patrons’ minds, waiters and waitresses take turns offering fruits and candy, while an overhead recording (in a child’s voice) constantly reminds guests to keep an eye on their personal belongings. If you don’t mind the wait, dining in commotion and kids barreling about your seat, Grandma’s Home is the place to dig into authentic Hangzhou eats.

 

Price: Approx. RMB60 per person

Who’s going: Families with boisterous kids

Good for: Dining in high decibels, waiting your heart out

 

// For address, see listing.

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