Seemingly without warning, The Tuxedo bar has taken a 007 leap into our lives on an unsuspecting Huangpu street corner.
Photo by Charms Jong
It is an establishment that feels exclusive, while providing a gracious atmosphere and smiling, well-dressed staff. It just may be the ultimate undercover venture for classic cocktail aficionados.
Photo by Charms Jong
That’s Shanghai 2022 Mixologist of the Year, Robin Leung (previous Senior Bartender of COA Hong Kong and Lead Mixologist of COA Shanghai) has put his passion for agave spirits into creating a menu of 'postmodern cocktails' – a reinterpretation of the classics using contemporary methods that bring a fresh face to beverages we all know and love.
Robin Leung, That’s Shanghai 2022 Mixologist of the Year. Photo by Charms Jong
The bar stretches at an angle into the building from its large brassy doors, with darkened wood ceiling beams and softened white light.
Rich leather seating and a black granite bar top create a 1920s secret club sensation, and the energy of this establishment is taste; there are no gimmicks, tricks or hijinks at The Tuxedo.
Speaking to this was the fact that The Tuxedo launched their Highlight Night with a guest shift by Taki Li of Hong Kong's Bar Leone, number one in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2024, and just last week crowned second in The World's 50 Best Bars 2024.
READ MORE: Best of: Hong Kong – Lorenzo Antinori of Bar Leone
Tuxedo #310 (RMB138): Gin, Siete Misterio, Blended Vermouth, Bergamot, Absinthe. Photo by LEO
The Tuxedo name is taken from a twist on the classic martini invented in 1893 at the Waldorf Astoria New York. Martinis of many forms grace the menu, but The Tuxedo #310 (RMB138) is purely smooth, strong and chilled faithfully by a frozen grape.
While the ingredients suggest a myriad of flavors, the bergamot is not a starring role in this drink, rather supporting the immutable martini character, while the absinthe is misted over the surface.
Soufflé Martini (RMB108): Rum, Marmalade, Coconut, Coffee, Chocolate. Photo by LEO
For a martini that runs more toward the imagination, the Soufflé Martini (RMB108) is a play on an espresso martini, but with a velvet foam raising perilously above the rim of the glass.
In a playful piece of flavor profiling, The Tuxedo menu sees drinks listed with levels of 'bowtie' for their different characteristics, and the Soufflé Martini receives three out of five bowties for foaminess.
The Salveray Coconut Rum in the drink is by celebrity Chinese singer Jay Chou, in partnership with Bruno Mars; like his music, the martini is straight forward and dessert-sweet.
Robin Fizz (RMB98): Siete Misterio, Lime, Tonic, Cardamom, Grapefruit. Photo by Daibo
Leung's self-titled Robin Fizz (RMB98) sees a Siete Misterio Mezcal base supplemented with cardamom and grapefruit. It receives one bowtie for smokiness, one bow tie for fragrance, and four bowties for bubbles.
The high level bubbliness comes from the fact the bar adds extra carbonation to the grapefruit soda they use. While many cocktails are overtaken when grapefruit is added, in this case it lends full attention to the mezcal, yet remains extremely easy to drink.
Continuing the homage to Leung’s agave spirit background, he has also included a few Mexican classics, such as a Michelada served without heavy adaptation, and a Margarita riff.
Michelada (RMB98): Beer, Lime, Clamato, Umami Sauce. Photo by Daibi
The Michelada (RMB98) is under the profile of Legacy Cocktails, and arrives in a towering handled mug accompanied by a small glass of Corona to add as desired, rather than the hangover cure of a fully upturned bottle in the glass.
An equally tall tower-block of ice runs through the center of the drink, and makes imbibing it an interactive experience, holding the ice rod away from your nose while lifting the larger-than life beer mug.
The Tuxedo’s unique umami sauce of Clamato Tapatio and Cantonese Worcestershire Sauce marry with lime to make this a long, relaxed beverage well worth the spend.
Endorphin Margarita (108rmb): Jalapeño Tequila , Chilli Vodka, Mezcal, Serrano, Habanero, Ancho, Black Pepper, Tapatio Sauce, Lime Agave Syrup. Photo by Charms Jong
The Endorphin Margarita (RMB108), on the other hand, is like the evil twin to the Michelada, presented with an overlaid black chili pepper garnish, known in Chinese as a chili of the sky.
Chipotle and spice ring out from the ruby red glass, and it is a fiesta indeed; a gentle nibble on the black chili enhances the intensity of the drink.
The Scorpion (108rmb): Cognac, Rum, Pineapple, Citrus and Orgeat. Photo By LEO
Under the heading of Forgotten Classics can be found The Scorpion (RMB108), which is based on the 1930s tiki cocktail concept of the Scorpion Bowl.
With the exact balance of rum and orgeat one could hope for, it tastes like a memory that isn’t quite accessible, of a Luau or a grandfather mixing up something for a family gathering.
There is a warmth to the sour via the in-house made toasted almond orgeat. The most striking thing about this cocktail, however, is the fact it comes with a scorpion for garnish.
The Scorpion garnish. Photo By LEO
Leung assures patrons that it is edible – but to “mind the tail” – and that it is like a salty, fried snack.
Braving a bite of just one claw brought levity and conversation with strangers; this is a great drink to order for tiki vibes... and a game of dare with friends or a date.
1910 (RMB118): Cognac, Siete Misterio, Maraschino, Punte e Mes Vermouth. Photo by Charms Jong
In keeping with modern classics, the bar would have been amiss not to include the 1910 (RMB118), an original by Ezra Star, famed bar owner of Mostly Harmless, Hong Kong.
Dangerously moreish, it is a warned reminder that drinks at The Tuxedo are not shy, and will infiltrate the senses.
The menu also includes a gangster-era Shanghai Cocktail (RMB98), which traditionally included a French influence by way of true absinthe, and now at The Tuxedo is enhanced with strong anisette raki for a somehow more Chinese punch, along with the original ingredients of Cognac, lemon and grenadine.
What’s especially romantic about this 1930s beverage revision is that the grenadine is made in-house, with fresh pomegranate seeds tasting earthy and lending a softness to the drink.
A final, crucial note to the class and convenience of The Tuxedo, is that they have a selection of wines and beer, including a non-alcoholic German beer. They also have a duo of non-alcoholic cocktails on offer: a Virgin Paloma (RMB98), and a Zero Negroni (RMB138), which impressively contains both a zero alcohol vermouth and Campari.
This is an establishment that seeks to offer comforting, classic style among the dark wood trimmings, and a kind of familiarity brought forward by the enthusiastic staff.
They do love to chat, and Leung himself can be seen throwing his arms out in Old World vigor exclaiming “Welcome to The Tuxedo!”
Robin Leung. Photo by Charms Jung
The Tuxedo, 46 Ruijin Er Lu, by Xiangshan Lu, Huangpu District 瑞金二路46号，近香山路
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