By Joanna Hutchins
In recent years, Sri Lanka has changed the conversation from 30 years of civil war to the more appealing history of its tourist attractions, which span ancient cities, tea plantations, blue whale watching, exotic wildlife, surfing beaches and jungles. In 2014, the tiny island nation in the Indian Ocean welcomed its millionth visitor. By the end of this year, it anticipates 2.5 million travelers - many of those from China.
Now is the time to go to Sri Lanka - while it’s still in a relatively untouched state and unmarred by the commercialism that growing tourism inevitably attracts. And there’s no more captivating place within the country than the ancient city of Galle.
Located about 100km from the capital city of Colombo, Galle is easily accessible from Colombo airport by a hired private car. An old Dutch colonial town, it sits on sea and bursts with colonial charm juxtaposed with local Sri Lankan color. Classic architecture springs from the seaside tropical setting and a wonderful scent of briny sea air and Sri Lankan spices permeates the town, hinting at its unique treasures.
Galle’s charm is captivating. It’s a markedly different pace to our home city of Shanghai. As you slide into the languid pace that the hot salty air inspires among the locals, you may just find that you are happy to sit and sip lemonade on the terrace of some of the stunning seaside hotels and do nothing at all. But if you prefer to explore, there’s much to see and do in and around Galle for a long weekend or an even longer week long trip.
The Galle Fort
Galle’s most famous attraction is the Galle Fort, located on a promontory and surrounded by the ocean on three sides. The Fort is a Unesco World Heritage Sight, built in 1663 by the Dutch, and is a massive, hulking fortress of epic proportion given the time in which it was built. The fortress is so sturdy that when the 2004 tsunami struck, it emerged relatively unscathed. Spend an hour or so here. Take in the breathtaking water views, strolling around the ramparts and, if you come on the weekend, seeing the teenage couples paired off in dark corners, holding hands and stealing chaste kisses.
A bit of shopping in Galle
In and around Galle Fort area, are charming colonial streets with many a lovely stores scattered about.
Southern Sri Lanka, where Galle is located, is well known for its local mined gemstones excavated from rice paddies. Sri Lankan gemstones, cerulean sapphires in particular but also rubies with their unique pinkish red brilliant hue, have long been regarded as some of the most brilliant in the world (random fact: the engagement ring of Prince Charles and Lady Diana was an 18-carat Sri Lankan cerulean sapphire).
As you browse the stalls and vendors, however, be mindful: taking advantage of the recent rise in tourism a few, unscrupulous gem stone dealers have been known to sell silver for white gold and glass stones in place of gemstones.
For reputable and trustworthy products, try MM Ibrahim (47 Church Street), known for its Bulgari-esque styles and in Galle since 1909, or Laksana (30 Hospital Street) with its wall-to-wall gemstones and jewelry. Mangala (43a Columbo Road) also offers fairly priced baubles and stones, while Manika (Fort Gallery) does original, unique jewelry and gem designs. No trip to Galle would be complete without the purchase of a small, precious memento, so do make sure to leave some to visit these stores.
If you are more into local handcrafts, textiles, and curious objects d’art, you will be in heaven with the imaginative selections of rustic jewelry; hand carved wooden statues, homewares and textiles like pillows and table linens. We recommend Elephant Walk (30 Church Street), which offers hand-painted bowls, wooden home décor objects and Sri Lankan handicrafts with an eye for design. Kanhanda Kanda Collection (Pedlar Street) and Barefoot, (41 Pedlar Street) do local hand-loomed textiles and great gift items to bring back.
For drinks and dining
Sri Lanka is not a party place. No nightclubs, few bars and an early closing time of around 11pm make happy hour your best option for having a cocktail.
Among the most attractive spots for a sunset drink overlooking the beach are the Grand Terrace of the Lighthouse Hotel, where you can watch the ocean waves dramatically crash on the rocks below and Sun House, a former colonial home converted into a hotel where you can enjoy a cocktail from Dicks Bar or savor one of their lovely meals – try their famous Sunday night curry dinner. With its mahogany-lined terrace, Amangalla Hotel is another excellent place to unwind after a hot day, and their Dining Room makes for one of the best restaurants around.
Recommended Day Trips from Galle
Galle can be well covered in two-three days, so you might want to take advantage of some of the amazing nearby attractions, like the tea plantations and surfing beaches.
Wijaya surf beach in Unawatuna lies seven kilometers south of Galle. Here, you can spend the day on the beach and try your hand at surfing. Or do as we did: enjoy a leisurely curry lunch at Wijaya Beach Cottages. Perfectly perched on the beach, the restaurant overlooks a calming stretch of sand and sea. Relax on the terrace with a thatched roof and watch families frolic in the sand, surfers trying to catch a wave and locals on the rocks fishing by hand for their dinner.
Nearby, Handunugoda Tea Estate in Ahangama is a 140-year-old tea plantation and spice and rubber tree farm. Sri Lanka is the third largest tea producer in the world and there is no tea plantation on the island more famous than Handunugoda – the legendary plantation that used to produce the famous “virgin” white tea for the Chinese Emperor Tsong. Only virgins, so the story goes, harvested the tea, never touching it with their own hands, but instead using golden scissors and bowls to collect the leaves. Here, visitors can witness the entire tea production process – from the fresh green leaves gathered from the harvest to the dried ones that go to tea manufacturers.
But there is more than just tea at Handunugoda. Before they started making the brew in the 1800s, Sri Lanka had been producing cinnamon since the 1700’s under Dutch rule. The spice farm at Handunugoda showcases plenty of that, as well as natural rubber, obtained by cutting the tree with a knife till it “bleeds” a liquid that’s then collected and, as it hardens, becomes rubber.
Galle’s charms are seemingly endless, and the city provides a fantastic strategic location to explore Southern Sri Lanka. Whether you are there a few days or a few weeks, you are unlikely to leave without the island’s charm forever imprinted in your memory.
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