Additional truffle-tasting by Stephen George
One of Asia’s most respected chefs, Umberto Bombana moved to Hong Kong in 1993 to run Toscana at the late Ritz-Carlton, before opening 8½ Otto e Mezzo, the first Italian restaurant outside Italy to receive three Michelin stars. He turned his attentions to Beijing last year with the launch of Opera Bombana in Parkview Green, where we caught up with him to talk about two of the things he’s best known for – white truffles and Michelin stars.
Opera Bombana is well into its second year. How has the experience been and what is the market like for Italian food here in Beijing?
It’s been amazing, fantastic – I couldn’t have expected better than this. The team is amazing, so is the response from the public and we are really pleased. Italy has one of the best inventions in food – pasta. Pasta and noodles have a lot of similarities. I think the two civilizations grew at the same time and developed their own pasta. It’s beautiful.
How relevant are Michelin stars, especially in Asia where, outside Japan, so few are awarded?
They have a hundred years’ experience. You can criticize them and make your own judgments but, in the end, it’s the most recognized food guide in the world. At this time they look at five or six of the most important things – value for money, fresh ingredients, balance of flavors and so on – so I think they use good criteria to judge restaurants.
They come in secret. In my case they may come six or seven times. Then they present themselves and the inspector comes and looks at the kitchen. Traditionally, they don’t make many mistakes.
When do you think we’ll see Michelin stars on the Mainland?
I’m sure they will come to Shanghai in a few years and I’m sure they will come to Beijing. It won’t take much. Since there’s a new market here, I’m sure all the restaurants and hotels will improve their quality accordingly and more chefs will come. The most important thing is the production of great produce and in China it’s already growing. I think there is the demand, there is the market, and then economically it makes sense to do organic food.
You’ve been hailed as the ‘King of White Truffles’ – what is it that you love about them?
It’s a very unique product and there’s only a small amount that grow every year in certain parts of Italy and some in Slovenia and Croatia. The ones from [the Italian town of] Alba have a more intense flavor because of the climate and the structure of the soil.
I introduced them to the Hong Kong market about twenty years ago. I wasn’t the first one, but I’m the one who made truffles famous there. Before, nobody knew about them and now they are waiting for the season. I’m not the king of truffles but they gave me this name!
We’ve heard that white truffles are better than sex?
Ah, you have big expectations [laughs, followed by long pause] – it depends on your taste. You cannot have sex 24 hours a day anyway, so I think balance and an enjoyment of food is a great pleasure, no question.
What food is your guilty pleasure after a long day?
I wouldn’t call anything I eat a guilty pleasure, you just understand the consequences [laughs, rubbing his belly] then you go for it! I love chocolate, I love pasta and carbohydrates – but it depends on the moment.
Opera Bombana (see listings for details)
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