Beijing Bar Review: Jing-A Taproom

By That's Beijing, November 10, 2014

By Stephen George, Will Philipps, Oscar Holland and Alex Taggart

Jing-A – the last of the city’s ‘Big Three’ craft breweries to have its own licensed premises – has finally opened the doors to its new bricks-and-mortar taproom – and what a peach of a bar it is: large, warm, sociable and with up to 16 different beers on tap.

Located in the 1949 former-factory courtyard in south Sanlitun, the bar marks the latest chapter in the rise of the one-time guerrilla brewers. Their popularity has seen them develop from a shady underground operation, no strangers to brewing beer in a bathtub, to upstanding publicans, with their own range of souvenir T-shirts (RMB100).

But like an indie band whose rise to prominence sees them swap the provincial club circuit for sell-out stadium shows, Jing-A’s arrival in Sanlitun has opened up the brewers to a whole new market – and in doing so, led to inevitable hold-ups at the (very spacious) bar, while first-time customers ask about the differences between the Airpocalypse Double IPA and the Worker’s Pale Ale (perfectly reasonable question). So, with this in mind, we’ve done our best to help ease congestion, with this handy run-down of our favorite Jing-A brews – their Greatest Hits if you will – in a rough order of strength.

Airpocalypse Double IPA 8.8% (RMB60)

An exceptionally strong, surly beer with a total disregard for pleasantries. The more polluted outside, the cheaper it becomes (the murky brew is discounted in accordance with the US Embassy’s AQI index, with a maximum reduction of 40 percent). Perhaps Jing-A’s most popular tipple. But be warned, four pints + smoggy night = near impossible to find your way home.

Koji Red Ale 6.2% (RMB40)

One sip of this unflapple ale and you’re suddenly transported from a bustling neon bar street to a Zen-like, mountainside shrine. Poised and graceful, but posseses untold inner strength. It would be cliched to say it reminds us of Mr Miyagi but every time we drink Jing-A’s Red Ale we’re reminded of Mr Miyagi. A nourishing beer, brewed with Koji sake rice, wasabi root and ginger (soy sauce optional).

Worker’s Pale Ale 5% (RMB40)

This classic American pale ale is a sturdy, salt-of-the-earth type that knows how to relax after a hard day’s graft. Enjoys wearing faded blue denim and polishing its muscle car. Can always be relied on to lend you a spare set of screwdrivers or take care of your dog when you’re out of town. Real stand-up beer this one, top-notch. Seriously.

Flying Fist IPA 6.5% (RMB45)

Never starts the fight, always finishes it. Think tuxedo-wearing Bruce Lee in a Macau casino. Calm, composed, and able to knock you flat out with a single one-inch punch. Don’t mess. The combination of Simcoe and Citra brand hops gives the Flying Fist a fruity, citrus backbone, taking the edge off the beer’s innate fury. Treat with respect.

Mandarin Summer Wheat 5% (RMB35)

The ying to the Airpocalypse’s yang, the Mandarin Summer Wheat is an idyllic blue sky beer, that likes long walks in the country and weekends with the family. Voted ‘most likely to succeed’ in its graduating class yearbook, this crisp, clean Belgian-style brew is impeccably turned out. Your mother would approve. Once described on these very pages as “the best beer in the city.” Fact.

Full Moon Farmhouse Ale 6.6% (RMB40)

Wears a plaid shirt, listens to Neil Young and likes to reminisce at length about summers past. A wholesome but rugged beer that has a tendency to induce a strong sense of homesickness and/or nostalgia among non-city folk. Is infused with earthy undertones of Sichuan peppercorn and a hint of sweet osmanthus flower. Among Jing-A’s most flavorsome ales. A must-try.

Big Slice Watermelon 4.5% (RMB38)

The Bacardi Breezer of the craft beer world. Rocks a Hawaiian shirt in December and still manages to look good. Despite being made with 100 percent organic locally-sourced watermelon (China’s unofficial national fruit), the melon flavor is mild – polite, even. It won’t offend your tastebuds like those wacky, fluorescent Belgian fruit beers are liable to. Light and refreshing. Definitely sessionable.