“Never change a winning team,” said Sir Alf Ramsey who, in 1966, became the only England soccer manager to ever win the World Cup. And while we deem it highly unlikely that nightlife proprietor Xiao Ming cares in the slightest for English football history, he appears to be swearing by Ramsey’s maxim. Because the man behind Hidden House, Revolution and Ming Bar has cracked a seemingly fail-free formula that he has replicated throughout his cluster of worthy drinking establishments: dependable service, uber-sleek environment and well-crafted cocktails.
His latest venture, Miles, follows suits. Opened where the former Heaven Supermarket once stood (RIP), the newest addition to his mini Sanlitun empire boasts an intimate atmosphere, edged with a softly-lit decor of wood, brass, exposed brick walls and plush leather sofas. While its older siblings verge towards the tight and excluisve, Miles has room for larger groups. Nonetheless, the vibe remains thoroughly discreet.
Behind the bar meanwhile, Ming’s team of charming bartenders are dressed in crisp shirts, bow ties and suspenders. They busy themselves under a striking display of bottles, shaking up a cocktail list that ranges from the light-hearted to the thoroughly mature. On the night we visit, mixologist Yann – whose pedigree was earned in institutions like The Public, one of Shanghai’s finest cocktails bars – lures us in with a sample of deep flavor combinations and rich, bright tinctures. A pretty pink glass of Tropical Tonic (RMB60) brings together Tanqueray gin, Aperol, grapefruit and lemon juice into a refreshingly tart concoction.
Traditional tastes get a twist with the Smokey Old Fashioned (RMB65) which is made using Maker’s Mark whisky, sugar and angostura bitters. The mixture is then introduced into a tightly-sealed jar and oak-smoked in front of us at the bar, the infusion adding an intriguing layer of savory complexity. The Sazerac (RMB65) fuses rye, absinthe, Peychaud’s bitters and syrup, resulting in a near-perplexing sweetness. We prefer Revolution’s version, though it still delivers a palatably zany taste.
Miles undoubtedly infuses some quality into Sanlitun’s occasionally questionable nightlife scene. Some of us might long for the days of Heaven, but we are glad to see places like this popping up in its place. If this means more creations from Ming’s business dynasty, then so be it. This is one star team we can be fans of.
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Photo by Noemi Cassanelli
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