Beijing Bar Review: Dandy Room

By Holly Baer, August 16, 2019

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Nestled behind the Mr. Dandy menswear shop, Dandy Room feels like the inevitable resting place for businessmen who need to pick up a new suit and enjoy a strong drink to round out a busy day at the office. 

Walking in, we first notice how aggressively masculine the lounge is in its decoration. It has dark hardwoods, velvet cushions and dim warm lighting. It feels like an old gentleman’s club, the kind our grandfathers would reminisce about. Despite this appearance and nostalgic vibe, the music playing is a collection of funk classics with club-like backing beats, clashing with the otherwise calm and sophisticated atmosphere. 

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The drink menu features a wide array of cocktails as well as wines and other hard liquors. Throughout the menu, fabric swatches remind us of its namesake and the high-end suits only a wall away. The selection is robust – there really is a drink for everyone here. 

We start with the Mr. Dandy Signature Spritz (RMB90), a delightful mix of Aperol, cucumber, peach tea and sparkling wine. It’s crisp and aromatic, garnished with a sprig of rosemary. The drink is literally tied up with a ribbon, we assume to remind of us that this experience is a gift. 

We also can’t get enough of The Wolf of Wall Street (RMB100), a seven-ingredient cocktail that’s strong, sweet and remarkably pineapple-y despite having no pineapple juice or flavored liqueur at all. It’s presented simply, with a few flowers for garnishment. It tastes light and lux, and surprisingly soft given the energy of the venue. 

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It’s clear that Dandy Room wants to be the swanky lounge of our dreams, where we can relax and indulge in all the finer things life has to offer. If you’re the kind of person who buys expensive suits and takes international business calls daily, this could be the place for you. But without the fame of Mr. Dandy’s to support the Dandy Room, it isn’t the most memorable of places, and since it’s hidden from the street, it’s a bit difficult to find. 

Yes, it’s sophisticated, extravagant and classy. The drinks were delicious and nuanced. Will we come back? Maybe not right away. But for a single evening of pretending we’re part of Beijing’s elite club of money men, we’re left with a bit of an ego boost, we’ll admi— oh, you’ll have to excuse us, we have an important business call to take now. Yes, hello?

[Images via Holly Baer for That’s]


See a listing for Dandy Room and read more Beijing Restaurant & Bar Reviews

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