People don’t generally think of Beijing as a ‘steak town.’ Sure, we have a Morton’s. And aSizzler. Why, we even used to have Outback Steakhouse if you preferred your onions blooming. But most options are either pricy hotels or imported chains, and there hasn’t been much in the middle.
Imagine if this review wasn’t about the place trying to fix that! Lucky for us, Mai Steakhouse is staking its place smack dab in the center of that middle ground.
The new restaurant is in the space that was formerly Parlor. But now it’s time for the bar to grow up with its customers, says Jeff Li, one of the partners. Part of the rapidly expanding Mai brand, Mai Steakhouse sits alongside Mai Bar, Mai Fresh and Mai Tailor (also known as JW Tailor Bar) as the dressed-up dinner option. What that means precisely is a RMB200-to-300-per-head evening with imported grass-fed steak and a rotating international wine list. Not the cheapest, not the most expensive, but a good price for premium beef.
The decor hasn’t changed since the concept switch. As one of Beijing’s original ‘speakeasies,’ Parlor introduced the now-ubiquitous wood paneling, exposed brick and gentleman’s lounge vibes to the bar scene. (A stuffed deer head hangs above the bar.) The only addition we spot is white tablecloths. A stage still sits in the corner, with the promise of live music on Fridays and Saturdays.
Image via Mai Steakhouse
We begin our meal with the lemongrass shrimp (RMB68), truffled mushrooms (RMB38) and mashed potatoes (RMB38). They are fine: simple, no-fuss dishes. But we’re here for the steak. We go for a ribeye – a fatty and bold cut, because we want to see what Mai can do with a simple hunk of meat. It does not disappoint – it is juicy and flavorful, delicately charred and dripping with fat. A sprinkling of sea salt and crushed pepper are all that’s necessary to bring it to life.
But the star of the show is the beef Wellington. At RMB288, it’s meant to be enough for two people. Did someone sit down next to us and demolish one by himself? Absolutely. But hey – the tenderloin was tender, and the pastry was flaky and crisp. We throw no shade.
The cocktail menu also hasn’t changed since the switchover. Drawing on his experience at the now-closed Nali Patio classic Apothecary, Jeff Li’s cocktail list still stands strong. The mala old fashioned, with Sichuan pepper-infused bourbon, remains a favorite. However, we’re told that to suit the new steak-focused menu, the cocktail list will be revamped, so stay tuned.
Mai Steakhouse is an intriguing revamp of an old space. And with new favorites like Rollbox open just around the corner, and a location between the increasingly busy Chunxiu Lu and Sanlitun proper, it’s in an ideal spot.
With tight seating and a slightly awkward layout, we’re not entirely sure if we’d take a first date there (though we are sure we wouldn’t take a vegetarian). But we can see ourselves popping a few bottles of red, going to town on a steak and living our best adult lives. If this is what “growing up” means, then we’re fine with it.
[Cover image via Mai Steakhouse]
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