Beijing is drowning in German restaurants – overpriced bratwurst platters are almost as ubiquitous as brick piles in the hutongs. But Bodensee Kitchen ups the game with a menu full of flavorful options, all worth their price.
Bodensee feels homey from the moment you walk in. Located on the second floor above Maizidian’s South German Bakery, its warm, wooden space features cutesy kitsch and German-speaking staff at all hours.
We begin with Bodensee’s seasonal game meat menu (available through Feb 15), which features deer. The deer goulash with poached pear (RMB138) is a succulent, flavorful rendition of the meat, with none of the gaminess that wild meat is prone to. Our garlic cream soup with fresh forest mushrooms (RMB38) is meaty and creamy, while not being too heavy. The chestnut cream soup with roasted pumpkin seeds (RMB48) is similarly hearty, with a silky texture that makes us want seconds. If you like wild game, this is the place to go.
The deer specials are over after Chinese New Year, but not to worry – the regular menu is a treat as well. Just don’t come here if you’re looking for a light snack. Our Tyrolian schlutzkrapfen (RMB88), an Austrian dumpling filled with spinach, parmesan and brown butter, is as light as it gets. Our beef roulade (RMB126) comes with spaetzle and red cabbage. And as if that weren’t enough calories, we finish with a vanilla-and-raspberry Bavarian mousse (RMB48).
But most importantly, beer – what is a German restaurant without it? We sample everything from Bitburger draft (RMB54, light and refreshing) and Weihenstaphan wheat (RMB40, a tad darker) to Schoefferhofer grapefruit wheat (RMB38, sessionable and almost soda-like) and a lumbumba (RMB40, hot chocolate with Meyer’s Rum). The drinks are classically German, with some unexpected twists – kind of like Bodensee Kitchen.
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