Rustic wood and repurposed materials, a clever modular design and feel-good mottos like ‘You Rock!’ or ‘Wake Up, Kick Ass’ plastered on bright tiled walls beckon diners into Moka Brothers. The third venture by the team behind Mosto and Modo Urban Deli, the enterprise has taken over part of the defunct Ciro’s Pomodoro in Nali Patio, and oh boy, what a difference it makes.
Focusing on healthy eats and drinks, the café/restaurant serves straightforward fare that feels good going down; reminiscent of Wagas or Element Fresh, but quieter, and far more exciting in terms of ingredients, Moka Bros feels somehow more personal than its nearby rivals.
Come lunchtime, the airy and hip space – which counts no more than 30 or 40 seats – buzzes with the animated chatter of media types and stylish passers-by, while a smooth service eases things along without a hitch. The menu, overseen by Alex Molina, is a hearty list of nourishing food and creative concoctions that makes you feel good the moment you look at it: fruit smoothies for the pious, freshly tossed salads (RMB50-68), wholesome wraps (RMB50-68) and savory crepes (RMB55-75), as well as power bowls (RMB48-75) served in rice or noodle-based options that cater large appetites, and are filling main courses for dinner too. An assortment of side dishes to share (RMB18-65) offers perfect bites to snack on over a glass of wine during the 4-7pm happy hour, while exemplary pastries, waffles and crepes (RMB38-65), all made daily on site, are enticing treats for afternoon tea.
Right, that’s the menu, now on to what we had. A black bean dip (RMB25) is a beautifully presented starter accompanied by veggies and corn chips. Its blend of tomato-cilantro salsa and chive cream mingles together nicely, a subtle sample of vibrant zests. The green olive tapenade (RMB18) with toasted tomato wrap is equally addictive, pungent yet delicate in its flavors.
A tenderloin steak and avocado wrap (RB68) comes chock-full of flavorsome beef with black beans and jalapenos. Drizzled with a homemade cilantro–lime sauce and wrapped in a laffa, it’s a delicious burst of forth rich meaty goodness. On the opposite side of the spectrum, the shrimp and avocado salad (RMB68, pictured above) is a colorful and incredibly light mix of veggies in a spicy dressing, a sizeable gourmet sunny- day meal on your hands.
As for the power bowls, those on a health kick will sure have a hard time choosing among the appetizing options, but we tried the red rice crunch (pictured below) and couldn’t recommend it enough. The generous dish has depth and heft, the red rice is moreish and the toppings well thought out; pleasing bites of avocado, red beans, yellow corn, tomato and red onion, intense rounds of chicken (add RMB18 for that) cooked to fall-apart softness.
The kitchen is going to open for breakfast soon, and the restaurant’s affability and focus on fresh ingredients is set to make it a go-to early meeting spot in the area - but also a place to while away an afternoon working at your laptop while munching on thoroughly good stuff.
Moka Bros is proof that Beijing’s health food scene is waking up to new living – and we can’t but welcome this new venture with our arms and appetites wide-open.
// Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园南楼A-105号 (5208 6079)
0 User Comments