Ron Mexico never fails to surprise us. One time, our Food & Drink Editor (hi, that’s me) walked in to find all 20 people in the bar drinking Amaretto Sours. Another time, her 19-year-old brother vomited all over the carpet, and staffers were exceedingly nice about it. But more recently, we were surprised when Ron Mexico co-founder Adam Gottschalk asked us to review his bar’s new location as a restaurant.
What started as a tiny bar with a wince-worthy name (we’ve explained it in past reviews; give it a Google if you must know) has now transformed into a Beijing institution. But can it now transform into a restaurant? What food can transition seamlessly from day to night? What food can fuel a saccharine afternoon of family-friendly activities at lunchtime, then soak up an evening’s worth of booze later?
The answer is obvious, no? R-R-R-RITTOS. Muchos grande nachos, mi amigos! Queso and carne and la vida loca, all wrapped up in a tortilla with a side of salsa and vaguely satisfying gastrointestinal discomfort. While Ron Mexico is no more Mexican than the eponymous Ron is, fake Mexican food is a time-honored American tradition. Those who share Adam’s American roots (hi, it’s me again!) will be thrilled to see buffalo chicken atop a pile of cheesy tortilla chips.
And yet, there are culinary surprises here. Our Sichuan chicken taco (RMB70 for three) is both bold in flavor and lightly crunchy. The pulled pork taco, slathered in barbecue sauce (the operations manager here worked at Home Plate for years) is served with love. And Gail, of Gail’s Caribbean Cuisine, has contributed her famous jerk sauce, which we try on a delightful jerk chicken burrito (RMB70).
It’s not the most authentic Mexican food, but it doesn’t have to be. The most important thing about these ‘rittos is that they’re there for you. Even if you’re drinking Amaretto Sours instead of Coronas.
Images by Victor Liu
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