Nothing says success – or, perhaps, excess – like Sanlitun. And so, taking its cue from other hutong establishments before it – ahem, Mr. Shi’s Dumplings – everybody’s favorite Sichuan restaurant, Zhang Mama, has opened a new branch on the north stretch of Sanlitun Lu. Unlike the other, more humble, Zhang Mama locations, the Sanlitun branch has a menu with English translations, plush private rooms and wine bottles. It's decked out with Picasso-inspired murals and floor-to-ceiling mirrors, even the bathrooms are extra. We question if this is really Zhang Mama. One bite of brilliant, numbing boboji confirms it is. The food itself looks and tastes the same, and the prices seem pretty similar too. Yet we still can’t shake the feeling that everything has changed. Don’t get us wrong, the new location is very attractive in a generic sense, but maybe we like eating in a too-crowded space sans trendy lighting fixtures.
July 3, 2017
June 27, 2017